Khujand – the capital of northern Tajikistan
Khujand is one of the oldest cities of Central Asia, according to some sources it was founded in the VII-VI centuries BC. It was conquered by Alexander the Great, who rebuilt, fortified and re-named it to Alexandria Eskhata (Extreme). Located on the Great Silk Road, and connecting Samarkand with Fergana Valley, Khujand enjoyed a favorable geopolitical location and significant transport importance. Later, it was conquered by the Arabs (in the VIII century), and then it maintained resistance to the army of Genghis Khan, but eventually was destroyed (in the XIII century). However, very soon the city revived, becoming one of the largest commercial, cultural and scientific centers of the Central Asian region. And even today, Khujand is an important industrial, scientific and cultural center of northern Tajikistan.
Khujand, occupying, mainly, the left bank of the Syr-Darya River, is surrounded by mountains with the slopes planted with orchards. A few kilometers upstream, there is a place where the Kayrakkum reservoir starts, stretching for 55 km. The Khujand citizens and tourists like to go swimming, sunbathing or fishing on the lakeside. The city’s climate is as beautiful as nature – the hot summers are softened by the winds and the waters of the Syr-Darya, while the winters are mild with little snowing.
As a thousand years ago, nowadays Khujand still plays an important transport role. The city is crossed by the shortest route, coming from Central Uzbekistan to the Fergana Valley, and afterwards to Kyrgyzstan. The city has a railway station, as well as an airport located 11 km from its center. The nearest major cities are Bekabad (40 km to the west) and Kokand (140 km to the east).
Being home of famous scientists, writers and musicians, Khujand preserves the status of the scientific and cultural center in Tajikistan. The city has a theater, regional history museum and an archaeological museum as well as the Khujand State University, with an enrollment exceeding 10,000 students from all over the country.
Khujand managed to preserve some monuments dating back from the XVI-XVII centuries – the Sheikh Muslihiddin Mausoleum and Jami Masjidi Jami Mosque as well as Khujand Fortress, which was built together with the city more than 2,500 years ago, and underwent several stages of complete destruction and restoration.
And today, following the tracks of the Great Silk Road, it is impossible to travel in Central Asia without visiting Khujand, the city which become a corridor in the snowy mountains.
Khujand fortress, Khujand
Throughout the whole history of Khujand, the city’s heart was its castle. Over 2,500 years, the Khujand fortress expanded together with the city, was destroyed by the conquerors, rebuilt anew, but always continued to be a symbol of endurance of the people.
Archaeological excavations have revealed that the first fortress was built in the VI-V centuries BC, and consisted of an artificial embankment gradually developed into a thick wall of natural clay. Moreover, in addition to the fortress there was a city wall occupying 20 hectares. Along the walls there were deep moats filled with water.
During the heyday of the Great Silk Road Khujand fortress was rebuilt and the city wall as well. However, the city was growing even more, and was divided into three parts: the citadel, and rabad shahristan. By that particular time, the Khujand fortress was considered one of the most inaccessible fortresses in Central Asia.
However, the fortress was fated to fall under the onslaught of the Genghis Khan’s army. In the period from 1219 to 1220 Khujand was under a siege, the number of invaders, at that, exceeded 25,000,000 people, excluding 50,000 captives, intended for work. Timurmalik, who led the defense of the fortress, could not offer resistance to the Mongol fleets and the city surrendered. The fortress was completely destroyed, and the siege of Khujand has become one of the biggest events in the history of Tajikistan.
Some historians argue that the fortress was rebuilt in the XV century, while others believe that the reconstruction began soon after the siege. However, nowadays, the Khujand fortress is the remains of walls and gates, as well as a territory of archaeological digs of the first wall foundation.
In 1999, a part of the eastern wall of the Khujand fortress dating back to VIII-X century was restored, and flunked to the building of the Museum of Local History, Archeology and Fortification. This museum has collected household items, pottery and implements found at the fortress territory. All in all, the museum fund consists of 1200 exhibits, most of which are available to visitors.
Panjshanbe Market, Khujand
Bazaar called “Thursday”
Covered market Panjshanbe is one of the most colorful sights of Khujand. Its name sounds similar to the name of the capital city – Dushanbe for a reason. Both names mean days of the week: Dushanbe – Monday, Panjshanbe – Thursday. They used to have trade on Mondays in Dushanbe, and on Thursdays in Khujand.
Panjshanbe Market or, bazaar, is located in the center of Khujand, opposite Sheikh Muslihiddin mausoleum. The bazaar consists of the main pavilion and many stalls, tents and shops adjust to it. It is always noisy there since not only residents of the city but also neighboring villages flock there for shopping.
Mausoleum of Sheikh Muslihiddin
This large memorial complex located in the historical part of the city was erected on the tomb of Muslihiddin Khudjandi – the ruler of Khujand, a poet who lived in the 12th century. The legends say that sheikh Muslihiddin was a holy miracle-maker. First he was buried in Undzhi settlement (Khujand suburb) but his admirers transferred his remains to the city and built the mausoleum on this place. It was in the 12th century. Back then the mausoleum was a small burial chamber made of burned bricks decorated by terracotta. This tomb was destroyed during Mongol invasion.
In the 14th century the mausoleum was rebuilt with slight changes. It consisted of two rooms. But this building was also destroyed. In the 16th century and you building was erected on what was left of the old mausoleum. Structurally it differed from former structures and became not just the burial site but also the place for prays and ceremonial ceremonials. Today the Mausoleum of Sheikh Muslihiddin is an architectural complex consisting of the cathedral mosque, the 19th-century minaret (above 20m tall) and ancient burials with the Mausoleum of sheikh Muslihiddin being the main one. The present mausoleum is two-storied with the portal entrance and the wide dome. In the center is ziyoratkhona (the hall of commemoration) and the tomb-gurkhona under the dome. In the center of the room there is a wooden sagona covered with graceful geometrical carving with vegetative ornament and incrustations.
Kayrakkum Reservoir,
20 km from Khujand there is one of the natural attractions of Sogdian region – Kayrakkum reservoir, stretching for 50 km to the east. This artificial lake was made in the 50-s of the XX century to build a hydroelectric station and control the Syr Darya runoff. The country’s inhabitants, having no access to the ocean, often call it the “Tajik Sea”.
The statistics of the Kayrakkum reservoir in figures looks quite impressive: its length is 55 km, width is 20 km, maximum depth is 25 meters, and the total water volume is 4.2 km3. The length of the dam is 1,205 meters and while the height is 32 meters. In addition, in cold winters the Kayrakkum freezes, and in summers the air temperature near the coast reaches 30-35 degrees Celsius.
An artificial lake has become a new ecosystem of the region: its waters are rich in fish species (pike, carp, catfish, perch, bream, etc.), moreover it became a stopover for birds of passage, annually migrating from north Asia to India and other countries.
The Kayrakkum over its half-century history has become a popular holiday destination. It has various sanatoriums, recreation areas and children’s camps stretching along the coast. This is a great place for swimming and fishing. Its coast along the whole length is covered by numerous fruit orchards.